Split, Hvar and the Delights of Dalmatia on the MS Mendula

Brač

A hazy sun glints on the azure waters of this stunning coastline and there’s ample time to enjoy a leisurely breakfast this morning as we set sail into the blue towards the island of Brač, the third largest in the Adriatic. You’ll soon realise why this is one of the most relaxing ways to holiday as you sit back to watch the stunning coastal views drifting by. As we leave Split’s legendary skyline far behind our voyage begins and what an adventure we have in store!

The Dalmatian coast is reputedly one of the most stunning in the world and certainly one of the most dramatic; towering walls of limestone cliff slice the sapphire depths below, interspersed with ribbons of shingle beach, pretty, secret coves and idyllic bays. We’ll find a spot to drop anchor for the first of several swim stops; nothing beats the experience of swimming off the platform at the back of the ship as if it were your own! Lunch is served before we arrive in the quaint fishing port of Postira to spend the afternoon exploring aboard all-terrain vehicles.

The landscape here is typically Mediterranean – pine-scented uplands with vineyards and citrus groves tumble down to swathes of unspoilt, deserted, beach. Once dependent on its grape harvest, Brač also relied on the export of its legendary stone – a useful mixture of marble and limestone – which can be traced to constructions as diverse as the White House, the Reichstag and Liverpool cathedral! We visit a local masonry school to learn more about this ancient craft.

Take in the spectacular panorama from Vidova Gora, the island’s highest peak before we enjoy a fascinating visit to the Olive Oil Museum in Škrip to learn more about this ancient and health-promoting oil before sampling some of the local produce.

We remain moored tonight in either Postira or Povlja so seek out an atmospheric little restaurant ashore and soak up the ambience of this delightful spot. (B, L)

Bol & Jelsa

Dawn breaks and we slip our mooring, setting sail once again to take in the glorious open views. After breakfast take to the deck for a spot of reading, perhaps in the deliciously bracing sea air as our captain skilfully navigates our vessel through these stunning waters. We arrive in Bol, with a cluster of little fishing boats jostling in its picturesque harbour, fringed by characterful stone cottages. Explore the tangle of winding lanes unchanged by time, stopping to admire the cheerful blooms cascading from wrought-iron balconies and shuttered windowsills.

There’s time for a refreshing dip too so after you’ve worked up an appetite, lunch is served on board whilst you savour the views of this spectacular archipelago. Later we arrive in Jelsa, nestled on the edge of a pretty bay on the island of Hvar, situated between the island’s highest peaks, St Nikola and Hum, and we moor in its smart harbour fringed with palms and bustling pavements cafés. With its freshwater springs the island is lush and green, its verdant hillsides draped in thick forest and its foothills perfumed with lavender and delicately scented fruit orchards.

Inhabited since Neolithic times, the Greeks then founded a colony here, becoming a major naval base during the 14^th-century as the Venetian Empire extended its reach. We enjoy a guided tour, stopping to admire the historic stonework of the typical Dalmatian houses, and the fine church encircled by a web of terracotta roofs and cool cobbled alleys.

We remain moored here overnight so this evening hop ashore to dine in one of the characterful restaurants serving local Mediterranean inspired menus: simply grilled fresh fish, pasta with seafood or hearty meat dishes - look out for dishes cooked peka, very slowly under a ‘bell’. (B, L)

Korčula

Rise refreshed and as you sit back savouring that second cup, soak up the dazzling seascapes in this spectacular archipelago as our superb vessel cuts effortlessly through the waves. There’ll be another opportunity to swim in these clearest of waters before lunch is served and it’s not long before we arrive in the historic walled town of Korčula and moor on the picturesque little quayside.

Known as Black Korčula by the Greeks due to its thickly forested interior, the island was ruled by the Venetians for 800 years and was famed for supplying timber to build Venice’s legendary wooden walls. It also provided a major shelter for the Venetian fleet and its Italianate atmosphere is evident as you explore its characterful lattice of winding streets and cool, shaded alleys.

There’s a view to capture around every corner in its exquisite old town - no wonder it’s affectionately termed ‘Little Dubrovnik’. The legendary explorer Marco Polo was born here, and his house can still be visited, as can the All Saints Museum, with its unique collection of religious icons and exhibits.

After our guided walking tour, there’s time to explore this delightful spot under your own steam and as evening falls take dinner at leisure in one of the island’s charming restaurants before heading back on board and finishing the evening with a glass of local rakija in the convivial bar. (B, L)

Vis

A chorus of circling gulls overhead signals daybreak as the sun rises over the fine Venetian facades fringing the quayside as we slip our mooring and head north to Vis, the most remote of Croatia’s inhabited islands. Take to the deck to enjoy the warm breeze and watch our impressive vessel slice through the waves before we drop anchor to swim and have lunch before arriving in Vis.

An Allied Forces base during World War II, the island was also used as a Yugoslavian naval base and closed to visitors until 1989. Step ashore with ease into its gorgeous harbour with a quaint jumble of stone houses nestling at the calm water’s edge and a spectacular wild mountain backdrop behind. After a guided tour, there’ll be time to wander at your own pace, soaking up the authentic ambience of this idyllic spot.

Tonight, wander back through the little streets in Vis’s old town and enjoy dinner at leisure. (B, L)

Hvar

Enjoy another morning’s spectacular sailing through this breath-taking archipelago before arriving on the northern side of Hvar Island with its stunning swathes of pebble beach and coastline studded with pretty bays and coves. Fed by freshwater springs, the island is lush and green with hillsides draped in an aromatic blanket of pine and eucalyptus forest and the foothills a spectacular mosaic of ancient olive groves and lavender fields.

Once moored, you’ll be able to take an e-bike tour around its historic little centre – where the streets don’t even have names! See the majestic St Stephen’s Square, the largest in Dalmatia, with a 16^th century fountain and lined by fine honey-coloured stone buildings and bustling cafés; sit and watch the world go by over a hearty bowl of gregada, fish and potato stew, with some deliciously crusty bread a glass of chilled local white wine – life doesn’t get much better!

Visit St Stephen’s Cathedral, rebuilt in 1560, to admire the treasures within, the beautifully sculptured stonework and 13^th century paintings. Or stroll the harbour area to visit the fine renaissance monastery, the chimes from its fine bell-tower soaring high above, ringing out over its tranquil gardens and age-old cypress trees. Head inside to find exquisite renaissance artworks including an exceptional depiction of The Last Supper.

Or perhaps the more energetic will venture to the impressive Spanjola Fortress perched high on a hill overlooking the town. Dating from the early 16^th century, this superbly preserved building with its mighty walls, towers and tunnels to explore, also houses a fine collection of historic artefacts including ancient amphorae dating from the Bronze Age.

Return to the ship as we sail away to moor for the night on the pretty island of Solta. Relax withan aperitif in the bar before we enjoy a delicious locally inspired menu for the Captain’s Dinner. (B, D)

Trogir & Split

Our final day’s sailing arrives but there’s still so much to enjoy, so take to the deck to absorb the dazzling panoramic views or just lie back in the sun and savour your last few hours on this stunning ship. This morning we arrive in the historic city of Trogir – a web of winding lanes and alleys tucked behind its picturesque waterfront and imposing 15^th-century walls.

At its heart you’ll uncover the beautiful cathedral, a mix of architectural styles dating from the 12^th century. Step inside to admire its ornately sculptured ceiling in the chapel and a fine Romanesque portal. Thoughts turn to lunch so return to the ship’s restaurant as we set sail for the final time enjoying a last swim stop en route to Split.

You’ll get the best views up on deck as we make our final approach towards this unique historic capital and Croatia’s second city. Whilst you may have been here before, there’s always something new to discover, and we disembark for a fascinating guided tour discovering more about this city’s eventful past through the insightful eyes of our local guide.

At its core lie the huge ancient ruins of the Emperor Diocletian’s Palace, recently used as the setting for Game of Thrones, but undoubtedly one of the most exceptional Roman legacies on earth. Constructed from the finest materials, Italian marble, local limestone and even sphinxes from Egypt, the entire complex surrounded by gigantic stone walls, occupied over 30,000 square metres.

During medieval times, other buildings were grafted on to this immense structure and as you wander under the huge, vaulted ceilings and amongst the quirky jumble of houses, churches and chapels, where medieval stonework juxtaposes Roman columns, you’ll be transported back in time on a fascinating historical journey.

Dinner is at leisure tonight so why not choose to return to the old town to savour some local fare and the intoxicating ambience of this mystical city for the final time before returning to our magnificent ship for a nightcap on the deck, against the spectacular backdrop of this magical city’s legendary skyline. (B, L)

Return flight

Today you’ll disembark and transfer to the airport for your return flight. (B)